Kanchenjunga Expedition (8,586 m.) in Nepal
Kanchenjunga is situated in eastern part of Nepal at 8586m. It was first climbed by a British team in 1956. It is an enormous mountain mass, and many satellite peaks rise from its narrow icy ridges. It is located on the border of Nepal and Sikkim, just 46 miles northwest of Darjeeling. It is the most easterly of the great 8,000 meter peaks of the Himalaya. The peak consists of four summits. The west summit, Yalung Kang, is 8420m high and some people classify it as a separate 8000m peak.
Three first Westerner to explore Kanchenjunga was the British botanist JD Hooker, who visited the area twice in 1848 and 1849. Exploration of the Skim, side of the peak continued with both British and pundit explorers mapping and photographing until 1899. In that year a party led by Douglas fresh field made a circuit of Kanchenjunga and produced what is still one of the most authoritative maps of the region.
The Japanese now took up the challenge and mounted expeditions in 1976, 1973 and 1974 during which they climbed Yalung Kang. A German Expedition climbed Yalung Kang in 1975, and in 1977 an Indian army team mounted the second successful expedition to the main peak of Kanchenjunga.
The route (North Face) is definitely the safest, although not the easiest. Climb of Kanchenjunga begin from a charming base camp in the meadows of Panorama at 5,180 m. First challenge is to fix lines up 900 m of intricate mixed climbing to the North col. This provides the most challenging climbing of the expedition. Once creating a lifeline to and from the North Col you can begin the long process of establishing three camps up the long and complicated North ridge. Using Sherpa support and oxygen, you can move at a systematically slow velocity higher and higher up the mountain. This is a highly satisfying climb for the expert Climbers.
Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival in Katmandu and transfer to hotel Day 02: Sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley Day 03: Drive to Phidim (3158m). Overnight in camp Day 04: Stay in Phidim for arrangement of porters Day 05: Trek to Panchami. Overnight in Camp Day 06: Trek to Doban. Overnight in Camp Day 07: Trek to Khewang. Overnight in Camp Day 08: Trek to Yamphudin. Overnight in Camp Day 09: Trek to Amje Khola. Overnight in Camp Day 10: Trek to Toronto. Overnight in Camp Day 11: Trek to Tseram. Overnight in Camp Day 12: Trek to Ramje. Overnight in Camp Day 13: Trek to Glacier Camp. Overnight in Camp Day 14: Trek to Kanchenjunga B.C. Days 15 - 20: Free time at B.C. for acclimatization Day 16 - 46: Climbing Period Day 47: Return treks to Ramje. Overnight in Camp Day 48: Trek to Amje Khola. Overnight in Camp Day 49: Trek to Yamphudin. Overnight in Camp Day 50: Trek to Khewang. Overnight in Camp Day 51: Trek to Panchami. Overnight in Camp Day 52: Trek to Ghopetar. Overnight in Camp. Day 53: Drive from Gopetar to Kathmandu. Day 54: Final Departure
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Kanchenjunga is situated in eastern part of Nepal at 8586m. It was first climbed by a British team in 1956. It is an enormous mountain mass, and many satellite peaks rise from its narrow icy ridges. It is located on the border of Nepal and Sikkim, just 46 miles northwest of Darjeeling. It is the most easterly of the great 8,000 meter peaks of the Himalaya. The peak consists of four summits. The west summit, Yalung Kang, is 8420m high and some people classify it as a separate 8000m peak.